I’m sitting out at a local surf break.
It’s a solid 6ft. The water is packed with blokes. I’m sitting out the back (I normally hang on the inside a bit and pick off the smaller ones).
A set approaches on the horizon and everyone starts jostling for position.
Jeff gets the first wave of the set, takes off smoothly and starts driving down the line.
Next up, it’s Keith.
Now I’m officially next in line for the sickest wave of the set but I still need to do some work.
I paddle like mad into the perfect position. Surfers who are further away from the peak make desperate eye contact with me. They want me to pull off so they can score this beast.
I’m committed. I take three more hard strokes down the thick face of the wave, yelling “YEP, YEP!” to anyone that thinks they’re gonna drop in. My board falls away from me, I’m airborne, but I manage to plant my feet in the perfect spot on my board.
My knees are bent to be able to take the drop, I do a quick sharp bottom turn and pull in to the barrel, it’s three to four seconds max but it feels like a lifetime, the world stops spinning when you’re in the barrel. I’m so deep I have to ride the foam ball out. Hooting, I bottom turn again, go vertical up the wave and do a massive reo* so big my fins come out the back.
And then I wake up.
Maybe your version of this dream is delivering the perfectly cutting and clever, yet sympathetic, comeback to an old adversary from high school (y’know, that girl Emma who said your fringe looked stupid), maybe it’s kicking a goal from halfway down the field with just seconds on the clock, your teammates raising you high into the air, cheering as you land them a grand final win.
We all dream about those perfect victories, don’t we? Because they’re rare. I mean, how often does life work exactly the way we picture in our heads?
Answer: not very bloody often.
But that’s not a bad thing.
In fact, one of the most surprising things I discovered while researching my new book Happy (and other ridiculous aspirations), is that those big moments in life – the soaring highs, and the crushing lows – they have less impact on our general, average level of happiness than we think.
In Happy I unpack the real, tangible, small things you can do to actually feel happier.
It’s available for preorder right now.
And I’ve made a secret podcast you can listen to while you’re waiting for your copy to wing it’s way out to you. I know, I’m so good to you!
You can get your hands on it all right here.
*a reo is a surfing manoeuvre. Short for ‘re-entry’.
The more you know, hey?!
Loved that mind surf ?♀️I always visualise getting barrelled when I’m running. Just want to say that I loved your books, and enjoy reading your email newsletters! Such a legend. Love Christie x