I grew up in a house perched on a cliff, overlooking one of the best surf breaks in town.
Every morning, as soon as the sun would peek above the horizon, I’d sit up in bed and check the surf.
Days were spent in the water, surfing with my brothers, or exploring the chutes and side paths of the cliffs, scrabbling over rocks and clumps of dirt and flora, only stopping when we heard Mum sing out at dinnertime.
Surfing was just something I’d always done. Like running or rock climbing or tying my shoelaces.
But I couldn’t do it after the fire.
See, everything that I “do” now I’ve had to re-learn. Typing. Brushing my hair. Swimming. Riding a bike. Opening a tuna can. Putting on my socks.
But surfing? Every time I tried, I just couldn’t seem to get it.
So I put it in the “too hard, get to it later” basket.
And then I turned 29 and I thought – “If not now, when?”
So I made a list of things I could do to help me out and crossed them off one by one.
Practise pop ups
Practise pop ups on hard floor vs carpet
Do surf specific exercises
Look up surf videos for beginners
Get suction plugs
Ask Toriki to stick sponges on board
Get mum to film you
Get Toriki to test green board (is it unstable?)
Place board on floor and set up markers
To be honest, it’s sort of embarrassing to share that list with you. I was trying so bloody hard, and I still couldn’t figure it out!!
So, I did the one thing that wasn’t on the list:
I got a coach.
She’s an ex-world champion surfer, who lives in my area and runs surf camps. So, I went for a surf with her and explained the problem.
“Hmmmmm” she said. “Let me think”.
The next day she called me.
“I reckon I’ve got a solution”.
She and her husband Mark had put two pieces of stiff foam on either rail of a battered old green foamy.
And, lo and behold, it worked.
I COULD STAND UP!!!!
Kind of. Shaky at first, but improving day by day.
Here’s the thing:
Sometimes working towards your goal, all by yourself, is hard!
Sometimes, all your efforts to “get it together”, to make it stick, to see improvements, just don’t work.
In that case, I think what you’re missing is support. A coach. A good support crew.
And that’s what School of Champions is – a group of like-minded people in your corner (and me as your coach), backing you and helping you overcome the obstacles in your path.
SOC gives you the tools you need to get started, and the support and resources you need to keep going.
If that’s something you could use right now, then come and join us.
If there’s something you’re struggling with – whether that’s trying to do a handstand, or build a new website for your business – you’ve gotta be open to help.
In fact, you’ve gotta ask for it.
Because nothing great is ever achieved alone.
PS – Enjoyed this story about how I got back into surfing? Why not join my Letter Gang! I promise to be the best thing to hit your inbox each week. You can join right here.